Climbing in the Wasatch dates back to the early 1930’s and
beyond. These early pioneers were known for their bold ascents with limited
protection and even more limited footwear. These days however, most climbing is
mundane in comparison, the routes are documented, the equipment has become
almost indestructible, and the training required to reach that level of
aspiration exhibited by those audacious climbers of yesteryear, can be easily
accomplished 5 miles down the road in your local climbing gym.
This is the new age of climbing, and I have no complaints.
However, with great advancement comes difficulty. There is no more low hanging
fruit, at least not within 5 miles from a city of a million people. But if
you’re persistent, resilient, and a little imaginative new routes can be found every
day.
Disclaimer: I’m not claiming any of these routes as first
ascents (at least not until I get your full input, which I’d gladly welcome).
Also every route was completed in alpine style, no bolts were placed (the only
one that really needed them was the slab and that was TR’d), and every anchor
was a big fat pine tree (kind of nice that every routed ended in a groove of
those). If you’re feeling chippy I’d gladly give out beta on the location of
all of these. We found nothing on any of these routes as well, no old hardware,
no old slings, etc. Our only sign of any activity was an old piece of rope we
found about a half mile from our first crag. We obviously attempted to put up
routes that weren’t contrived, nor just plain weird.
Granite or more specifically Quartz Monzonite runs rampant
in our beloved mountains and Bells Canyon is no exception to this. I had my
first experience with Bell’s early on in my skiing career, where we loaded up
on our heaviest touring equipment (this was before my light is right epiphany)
and tried to ski Thunder bowl in early June, needless to say we were way
underprepared and barely made it to the first meadow before dark. However, if
you’ve ever been up there you know there is plenty of rock, and every time
since that I’ve returned, I’ve admired, scoped, and been observant for future/new
alpine lines.
It was this that drove Mark and I up to the higher Bells
area this Saturday where we explored, attempted and completed several
moderate routes.
Mark walking through the upper meadow.
We stumbled upon a nice slab not far from the main trail and figured we'd try our luck on some of the cracks present there.
Our first route.
Easy jams, feet for days (5.5-5.6 ~50 feet)
We then TR'd the slab adjacent to the main crack system.
Ok smears, bulges+crystals if you can see them, no good
hands at the crux. (5.9 ~50 feet)
We then continued upward following one of the many streams to an area that exhibited quite a bit of potential. This area was probably a half mile or so from the main trail.
Our route w/lines. A solid 40 feet of handjams leads to the 1st roof which is easily liebacked (very reminiscent of Gordon’s Hangover), to another roof, which was deceptively gritty and flared. (5.9-5.10 ~120 feet)
Without
Mark tackles the easy jams
Onto the second and much more insecure (think kitty litter) roof
The 1st roof, it's hard to tell but the flake left of the purple sling was bulletproof and really fun to wail on.
Our last route of the day. 15 feet of laser cut locks brings you to a great hands roof which is easily dispatched with proper footwork. (5.9-5.10 ~35 feet). Standard Wasatch route, you’d wish it were 100 feet longer.
Mark onto the tight jams.
The end
